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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.